Skittish impala signal presence of unseen predator - 05:31 pm

17 Jun 2009

Just after sunrise we came across a herd of impala peering anxiously into a thick mopane forest to the east. They barked in alarm and shifted nervously, sure sign that a predator lurked in the tree-line. The impala soon bounded off to safer ground and we searched in vain for what might have caused their consternation. It was in all likelihood a leopard but the very thick bush rendered our search fruitless.

Vehicle problems forced us to limp back to camp earlier than we would have liked and we will have to head in to Maun tomorrow for spares and general camp supplies.

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Dawn breaks at Maxgwegana lagoon - 05:22 pm

17 Jun 2009

We heard the faint roaring of lions way off to the north-west this morning and could find no tracks to suggest that the Xakanaxa pride have returned from their sortie into foreign territories. They went north off the top of Mboma island the night before last after a herd of buffalo. Ironically, we did find fresh tracks of buffalo well within their normal territory this morning.

We paused to watch the first light of day paint the still waters in Maxgwegana lagoon vivid hues of orange and gold. The dawn chorus is always a joyful orchestra of birds and insects as the diurnal world wakes from it’s chill slumber. Silhouetted ducks and geese hurry past on their way to forage for the day.

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Elephant herd feeds in evening light - 07:47 pm

16 Jun 2009

With a lack of lions in the area, we decided to take a drive to see what else was going on this afternoon. Not a whole lot it turned out. The recent rain seems to have dispersed the game somewhat again and it was quiet this afternoon.

Just before sunset we came across a herd of elephants feeding peacefully at the top of Doug’s island. They were moving their way along the edge of the the swamp through the miscanthus grass. The late afternoon light lit the scene beautifully and we sat for some time watching them move into the evening. In the floodplain beside them, a single bull moved on his own.

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Xakanaxa pride heads further north… onto Marula island - 07:41 pm

16 Jun 2009

We set off early this morning knowing that we had a lot of ground to cover to get to the top of Mboma island where we left the lions last night. It looked like the Xakanaxa pride and two young nomadic males were destined to clash as the Xakanaxa pride followed a herd of buffalo out of their territory.

We picked up their tracks continuing north and heard calling from across the swamp on Marula island. Their tracks indicated that they had indeed crossed the deep swamp and we could not follow. It is at times like this that they tend to lose cubs. The youngest remaining cub, a young female, seems to have beeen lagging more and more over the past few days and we hope that they return with all five cubs.

Of the two nomadic males we saw no sign this morning.

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Xakanaxa pride heads north - 09:42 pm

15 Jun 2009

At around 13:30 this afternoon, the entire Xakanaxa pride, sleeping in the shade of a small acacia tree, suddenly all levitated. It appeared that an electric current had passed through them. I have no idea what startled them, but they all got a big fright. I don’t think they know what happened either as they all stood around, peering in different directions, clearly confused.

Despite the day being hot, this seemed to galvanize them into action and they set off uncharacteristically early. Making their way across the open plain beside which they had settled, they began to head to the north-west. We cut the day-old tracks of a herd of buffalo with them and it was certainly this that they were following.

It soon became apparent that they had picked up a different scent however. Their demeanour changed perceptibly. They moved cautiously, zigging and zagging as they went, the entire pride stopping to sniff at certain bushes and the males marking over any scent that they discovered. They were pushing well beyond their usual territory and were clearly wary.

Confrontations between prides almost always occur over prey. It does not make sense for them to clash unnecessarily as injury may result in death, but with buffalo herds scarce at the moment, they will challenge each other for resources. The Xakanaxa pride are struggling at the moment and are looking thin and hungry and will thus be more likely to take chances in neighbouring territories. 

They moved like this all afternoon and we braced ourselves for the confrontation that we were sure would ensue. This never happened in the end and at sunset we left the Xakanaxa pride looking to the north on the western point of Mboma island. We will be out there again tomorrow morning and will hopefully be able to deduce what, if anything, happens tonight.

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Nomadic males roar at dawn - 09:26 pm

15 Jun 2009

We heard calling from two different positions north-west of camp in the early hours of this morning and so made our way up Mboma island. We decided to split up. Brad and Jason headed through the centre of the island and Penny and I worked our way further north. The calling to the north was persistent and it did not take us long to find two young nomadic males shouting the odds to all the world. These males, that we have never seen before, look to be about four years old and are big lions. Their manes are growing in and, once fully mature, will be impressive animals.

At sunrise, they began to move south-west, roaring constantly through the early morning, deep bellows resonating across the open plain across which they were moving. They were also scent marking as they went, looking to all as though they owned the place.

Young male lions get ejected from their natal pride when they reach adolescence at about two years of age. For a number of years they must survive by constantly dodging mature pride males. These two lions have managed to survive and are now coming into their own. They will soon be of an age and size where they will begin standing a real chance in challenges for a pride of their own.

Brad and Jason had by this time found the Xakanaxa pride resting up on the south-western edge of Mboma, right on the dubious border area of their territory. They did not respond to the roaring of the two young males and seemed content to ignore the obvious challenges being shouted.

The two young males began making their way towards the Xakanaxa pride and we left them to join Brad and Jason, expecting a confrontation. This did not happen in the end and the Xakanaxa pride did little else during the morning than move into the shade.

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There’s a hippo in the kitchen - 09:38 pm

14 Jun 2009

by Penny Light

So there we were sitting in the office. It’s about 8pm. I was working away, Brad was chatting to Graham, when I hear this grass being munched outside. I grab the torch and step outside. There, right along-side the electric fence was a BIG HIPPO. I mean huge beautiful hippo. Completely chilled, munching on the grass. I can’t imagine ever coming closer to a hippo. We all stood watching for a bit, then returned to our tasks at hand. What? We live deep in the African bush. Game tend to live here with us. More so we live here with them.

Back in the office there is a conversation that goes something like this:

Penny: “That hippo was pretty close to the fence hey, you don’t suppose she would come through it?”

Graham: “Ya it’s fine, it’s highly unlikely that she will come through the fence, she will steer clear”

Penny: “Really? She was very close, in fact rubbing against it”

Graham: “It’s fine, relax”

And so it was. But not 5 min later I hear this same rustling. I get up with torch in hand again to look. And low and behold there she was. In our kitchen.

Penny: “Graham, there is a hippo in the kitchen!

To which Graham promptly steps out of the office.

Graham: “Where?” Pointing his torch out away from camp into the open plain

Penny: “In the kitchen Graham”

Graham, again pointing his torch away from camp

Graham “What? where”

To which I pointed my torch into the kitchen. Where I said it was. Several times.

Penny: “IN THE KITCHEN!”

Graham: “Oh hey would you look at that”

So yes this is a gloat, as a Canadian living in the African bush there is rarely the opportunity to be right, and as Graham would say I somewhat exaggerate the proximity of the animals to me / us / the vehicle / the tent.

There was indeed a hippo in camp last night. A big female hippo. She had decided to walk through the fence and make her way in looking for grass. I will admit she was sweet. She seemed completely and utterly unaware that we were all standing there shining lights at her. She just went about her business eating grass unbothered by our presence. Quickly realizing that there really wasn’t much to chomp on in camp she made her way out the other end and very gently walked through the other side of the fence (which had to be hastily repaired once she’d left).

Because it was evening we were unable to take pics as a flash may have startled her.

As you’ve read in past posts, elephants often make their way through camp and it is always a humbling experience as we go about our business living in their home. Last night was another incredible moment and reminder of just how small we are here in Moremi. Living amongst the animals in harmony (without becoming one). Usually it’s the adaption of animals to humans. Here it is the adaption of humans to the animals. At least for me.

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The yawn of the lion - 09:32 pm

14 Jun 2009

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Pride continues north - 09:29 pm

14 Jun 2009

The pride set off fairly early this afternoon and and continued heading north. They must have heard the interloping pride as they were heading resolutely towards Third Bride and the area in which the other pride has been seen, paying scant attention to a herd of impala and giraffe that they passed on the way.

These lions all look so passive and benign when at rest, but once they start moving with purpose like this, one becomes very aware of their power. Both as individuals and as a pride. It is always a bit awe-inspiring watching these lions moving like this.

At one stage on their march they passed a large flock of guinea fowl that had come down to the water’s edge to drink in the late afternoon. The adults ignored the shrill squawking of the alarmed birds, but some of the cubs took a half hearted interest in them. One of the youngest cubs, lagging a little way behind, crouched down and began stalking them. The guinea fowl all advanced on the cub who, comically, lost his nerve and scampered off after the rest of the pride.

The lions crossed Third Bridge at sunset and continued on their way north. Their may be some interaction on Mboma island tonight and it will be interesting to catch up in the morning.

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Pride heads north - 09:13 pm

14 Jun 2009

We heard the Xakanaxa pride calling while drinking our coffee this morning and correctly placed them near Fourth Bridge. We found them easily, all sleeping in some short grass in the chill hour before dawn. Just after sunrise, they roused themselves and set off to the north. We have heard reports of a pride of four females and a large black-maned male seen near Third Bridge over the past few days and this is the direction in which they were heading.

The Okavango is experiencing very high flood levels this year and, while we have not seen much evidence of this here, certain areas would have become water-logged causing game to have to shift to drier areas. It is quite plausible that this is a pride that has been pushed down from the north. These movements could well lead to clashes as the prides jostle for territory and access to prey.

The lions moved up the edge of the island untill they spotted a herd of red lechwe grazing on the edge of a floodplain. They lay watching the antelope for a long time and then seemed to lose interest. They all gradually fell asleep in the patchy shade of some wild age bushes.

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